Kay Yippee O Kay Aye

Saturday was a LONG-ASS drive to Oklahoma City. And since we didn't get to sample all the delights that New Mexico had to offer, we made some stops on the way out.

First off, coffee. And breakfast, but mostly coffee. We stopped at the historic Owl Cafe, a popular spot with both locals and tourists like us.

Post coffee photo

Friendly place, great neon, and the people!!! There was one guy, easily in his 60's absolutely ripped - the man could probably crack walnuts with his abs. But our favorite was the Man in Black. Black denim, black cowboy boots, black leather full length coat, black stetson, big silver buckle, and a bolo tie. Cheekbones you could cut yourself on in a weathered face. You see him leaning against the brick wall outside the local tavern, dispensing cryptic advice at 3am. Everyone calls him Billy, but no one knows his real name.

More legend than man.

Of course, since this is a trip along the mother road, we had to take a gander at the Tewa Motor Lodge.

Fantastic sign, great neon, and unfortunately in less than savory condition. Still, hope springs eternal that someone will buy it and turn it around. It's not that far from the old town section, which is becoming quite the tourist spot.

And speaking of the old town, that was our next stop at the American Rattlesnake Museum.

And there's our budding herpetologist

It was actually very interesting, way more about the habits and habitat than "oooh, scary snakes." The guy running it was actually pretty knowledgeable and had a cute piebald cocker spaniel named Trixie.

We still had a long drive ahead of us, but we couldn't leave without visiting Tinkertown. 

Tinkertown is the brain child of Ross Ward, who, starting in the 60's, spent the next forty years building, carving, collecting, and assembling. 

The walls are made of concrete and glass bottles, and when the wind hits them right, they sing. Inside are elaborate moving dioramas with hand carved figures displaying the old west, boot hill, the circus, the beach, you name it. 

Original inspiration for the Country Bear Jamboree 

There is also the sailboat Theodora R, the boat from Ten Years Behind The Mast. Yes, the actual boat, docked in the middle of New Mexico. 

Theodora F., meet Theodora R.

Always looking for good advice

The place was a masterwork of outsider art (Huel Howser would have loved it) and the ladies (family members of Ross) who ran it also happened to be derby fans (go Duke City Derby!).

Frankie contemplating tiny hands in the gift shop

It was great fun, and I'm glad we stopped, but now we had an 8 hour drive ahead of us. But no drive along Route 66 is made without stops along the way.

Cadillac Ranch was a must see. But what they don't tell you is that not only are the cars graffitied, so is the ground, the hay bales, pretty much everything in the vicinity.

 

What was funny is that while we were there, most of the tourists were Asian. Apparently this kind of crazy American kitch is popular. 

Of course, considering that we passed it and backtracked to get there, probably says something about our love of kitch as well.

Another thing they don't tell you is that nearby the whole affair is guarded by Second Amendment Tex.

I kid you not

And of course we had to stop at the famous U Drop Inn.

It's hard to tell from the photos, but it's an old Conoco station, with all its neon and exterior decoration completely intact. It's gorgeous at night. And a popular spot for car enthusiasts.

I thought this was part of the display until the

guy walked up, got his keys, and drove off.

We still had a few more hours of driving, so I kept sucking down caffeine. 

Like, enough to keep a narcolept up for a week

At the Denny's our waitress was from Australia (she had cats and really didn't like that bitch who came in for the late shift.) We don't know what her story was, but I hope it's as good as the one we made up for her. 

We made it to Oklahoma City and the Airbnb of Jared around midnight. The place is in one of those residential townhouse communities that feels like it ought to be in an x-files episode. But the room is adequate, the rate is cheap, and it will do. Except for water. I don't know what it is, but once we got east of Las Vegas, all the tap water tastes like ass. Literally nobody drinks the tap water. 

After staying up until 2 vibrating, we (I) got up late and headed into the downtown area to check it out. First of all, for some bizarre reason, the on and off ramps around Oklahoma City are all hairpin turns. You literally have to go from 70 to 20 (or visa versa) in a few hundred feet. Also, nobody uses turn signals. Scott commented on that, telling me that I was confusing the traffic by using my signals. I thought he was joking. But, be that as it may, we made it downtown to the Bricktown area, where we visited the Banjo museum. How can they put that there and not expect it to be touched? It had some beautiful instruments, but sadly the black roots of the banjo were pretty solidly whitewashed. I mean really, how does one discuss banjos, jazz, and ragtime without touching on black contribution? We wandered, ate, wandered, and finally headed back to our sad little bnb. I say sad, because while Jared is perfectly nice, the frozen pizza box with a fork and burnt crust on the counter when we got back speaks volumes about his life.  Random giant nickel, because why not? We didn't make it to the Museum of Osteology before closing, so it's on our list first thing tomorrow. Then another hella long drive to St. Louis.