From Ed Rickets to Liberace

So  it turns out that Brynna has NEVER BEEN TO MONTEREY!

For someone who live in Northern California in their 20's, this is a serious omission that needs to be corrected.

We started off today early. We had to get to the Pacific Biological Labs by 9 for our tour (free, btw, if anyone's interested), so up early, out for coffee and shuffling zombie Brynna into the car.

Because it was at 9, and not 9:30, I drove like a bat out of Hell to get there on time.

Shocking, I know.

But we made it, and got to see the only real remaining bit of Cannery Row on Cannery Row. It's a little worn down redwood building standing in between all the remade, tacky, anonymous buildings that make up the area today. Such a surprising anomaly, it's not surprising that it gets overlooked by basically everybody.

Frankie finds their dream home

This place was Ed Rickets home and place of business for many years. He entertained many luminaries (and non-luminaries) and after his death it became a men's meeting place. But the basic shape is still intact; it has the original specimen tanks he used, some furniture, etc. It's refreshingly honest in an area that's been so sanitized and made over.

After, we took a walk down the street, but stopped short at a stairway that led to the beach. Frankie and I geeked out over the (very limited) tide pool action. My opinion is that any tide pool is a good tide pool. 

The major sculpture/public education piece was a fountain. It featured the (old white) men who decided to reinvigorate the Cannery Row area. There was a Chinese fisherman and a Madame who represented everybody else.

Don't get me wrong, I still have appreciation for the area, but it's changed so much from when we used to go in the 60's. It's better for the economy, it's cleaner, but I wish they could have tried harder to keep it's soul. The buildings in the rest of Monterey: the customs house, the adobe Robert Louis Stevenson stayed in, the First Theater, etc. still retain their history and shape, even if they serve other purposes. But Cannery Row has ditched the facades, embraced the corporate, and still stands guard over one of the most beautiful bays in the world. Even the pier is more honest in it kitchyness. It's a tacky wasteland of chowder bread bowls and keychains, but it embraces what it is and doesn't pretend.

Besides, it has a special place in my heart. Years ago, when we were visiting Monterey as a family, my parents, in a bid to get a couple hours to themselves, bought us tickets at the theater on the pier to see A Little Night Music. It was my first intro to one of the great loves of my life - Sondheim.

It's still there!

After that, we strolled around Monterey, looking at the historical buildings (Trail! Of! History!), grabbing a nosh, walking a bit more and heading to the venerated Dennis the Menace Park.

Heed the warnings!

By then the wind had picked up, so the swan boats we wanted to take were grounded.

After the non-swan boat adventure (we decided to try again tomorrow), we headed to our Airbnb host. That where things started to go off the rails. We had trouble finding the place. There were no check-in instructions. The address was difficult to find. The host was non-responsive. So after leaving multiple text, email, and voice messages, we decided to go back to Monterey, find a place to grab a drink, and look out over the water.

We pondered where to go and finally decided on Cannery Row. The establishments are there mainly for you to drink enough that you think Bubba Gump Shrimp is a good dining option. So we parked on the street (hail Mary, full of grace, help us find a parking space) and fond a place that fit the bill. There were a couple of seagull nests just below our window (it's weird how even an obnoxious bid like a seagull can look adorable when sleeping on a clutch of eggs), watched otters, and waited until heard from our host.

We finally connected with our Airbnb host and got inside. And I'm so glad we did. One of the things about Airbnb is the personalities of the people who run them. No matter how hard they try (and most don't) their personalities shine through in their decor, attitude, etc. This place was no exception.

This is the entry

The place was just a bit over the top; gilded frames, velvet paintings, rococo furniture - Liberace would have been at home here. 

After the entry, this is what you see as you turn left. It's about 4' tall. It may be Dumbledore
or someone else, but no matter what, you are being judged. And found wanting.  

And here's a typical bedroom. No, Not Hearst Castle. 

So basically it's an Arabian Nights fever dream. But hey - beds comfortable, price reasonable, mild anxiety getting in, but no permanent damage. 

Greek food for dinner (best baba ganoush I've ever had; worst moussaka) and had a charming conversation with our Lyft driver, who in addition to being an Iraq vet, is an Aspiring Author. We had a look at his tumblr, gave a dramatic reading, and decided that he was kind of precious.

Then goodnight, and aquarium in the morning!